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Scary sharp with a veritas guide. It was the least expensive option for me
at the time that would offer the right results.

For anything that needs sharpening, i used my bud Alain so far and it worked wonders but i plan on giving it a shot at scary sharp since i've been doing it like Mike Snider and find too that it's eating my chisels way too fast!

Guys,

Just to let you know, there is a good article on sharpening and micro bevelling in this month's Fine Woodworking.

[QUOTE=Arnt] Diamond stones, 6000 grit Japanese water stone and simple guide.

Colin, how do you like your Veritas guide? [/QUOTE]

Arnt, I've not had it long, only a couple of weeks or so, but from limited experience, it would seem to be the only sensible choice for a honing guide.

Colin

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Thanks Russ, i probably will look through my files here first and find one i saved moons ago among the numerous lutherie related files i saved, i just gotta kick my b**t and find it! Just forgot where i put it!

I am a hand sharpener. I use a diamond stone, red stone with 3 in one oil, and a leather strop with fine grinding paste, finished with a final leather strop...

My aching and painful left arm will testify to that!!!

I just bought the Duo-sharp diamond stones and the Veritas MkII. Works great and is fast. I still can't get my spokeshave working right... Oh well that's another thread. BTW that Fine Woodworking mag has an article on setting up your spokeshave too...

Todd- on these handtool type issues, you may have about the most practical experience on the forum. So-where do you stand on flat bevel versus hollow grind? I don't ever use a high or even mid-speed(1750) grinder on my blades. Eeven when I have to rehab a damaged or bought-used blade,I either use Duo-Sharps or Dia-Sharps by hand(with a guide,Eclipse, or Veritas) or the Tormek. Just on principle I use flat bevels on chisels that will see mallet use. Your thoughts?PS- I would guess that most of my plane blades have been Tormek'd.Miketobey38890.3963657407

Todd:

Veritas now has this: Camber Roller Assembly for radiusing plane edges. I agree they are a bit pricey, but I sure like it...

-Mark

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[QUOTE=ToddStock] any narrow roller guide like the Eclipse will do the Charlesworth camber in nothing flat.[/QUOTE]
Todd is dead right there. First time I ever tried to do that I got a nice smooth curve! Just press harder on one side, then the other...magic! Save your money, unless you need to do it on a blade that won't fit the Eclipse.

Along this line, Does anyone use those little IBEX violin makers planes? I'm using them for mandos, they don't really fit in my honing jig (REAL short, narrow blades) and I am inept at freehand sharpening. I'd also like to put a little radius on them so they don't gouge the wood so much. I'm thinking of building a simple little sled at the appropriate angle with some way to clamp the blade in, but thought I would check with folks, and see how/if they've addressed this problem.

-Mark

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Guys this has been very informative for me---THANK YOU!

Forgive me for such a silly question (I'm full of them), but what is the easiest way of sharpening a cranked chisel? There isn't any kind of honing guide that would accomodate this is there?

Sorry...I am a lame-o when it comes to this stuff!

Jordan (probably shouldn't have given out my name)

Re: cranked type chisels. I have those little Crown bent chisels. They are freehand only(I don't have the shortie jig for the Tormek). These guys are handy when needed. Like Todd says, the Hirsch cranked chisels I have don't get used very often,but they are self jigging. My knuckle drags on the stone at the correct bevel for a little secondary bevel. Since they are rarely used, I've never had to re-bevel. On the Veritas Mk. II-for those who aren't confident honers, I do think it is a big help;but,since luthiers often use very narrow chisels, in those cases the economical Eclipse works better because it will securely clamp the very narrow tools.MT

I use the eclipse type guide too, and I can attest to the ease with which you can hone a curved edge with it. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the fact that the smaller contact area of the narrow wheel will wear soft water stones faster than I expect the larger Veritas type roller will. To avoid this problem I will use the whole area of the stone and not go back and forth over the same path all the time, I think of as trying to flatten the stone instead of the steel.   I also keep the bevel firmly to the stone surface and put as little pressure the wheel as possible, just enough to keep the bevel in the correct position.

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I think I'm going to pick up one of those Eclipse-guides today from Woodcraft. The MK II looks nice, but most of you seem to think its not worth the extra $35. The Eclipse-style is cheap and simple---just like me

The scary sharp method w/ a guide seems like it will be the best option for me right now, but will probably end up having some stones sooner or later.

In all seriousness though...you guys all have great ideas, so THANK YOU!

Jordan

Todd- I think that the Duo-Sharp diamond plates are very versatile. I use mine to flatten waterstones too.And like I said, when I want to move metal, the x-tra coarse is fast and clean. I have been going back to my Norton oilstones so much I've given thought to selling my H20 set-up. But, every once in a while I hit a piece of steel that seems to like the waterstones. I second-flatten waterstones before every use.That way you always know,and you don't end up with a flattening nightmare down the road. Takes about 20 seconds with the DMT.MT